Aurea questions
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Aurea questions
I recently recieved an Aurea plant....thanks kingman.....and was curious on its hardyness vs "koi" which i do have in the ground but have seen small growth from that last year. also is it common for the ocasional tortise shell culm and then a more normal looking one?? Just planning on a spot for this baby and was curious on any z 6ers out there who might have it growing...I looked at the pics but it seems that z 7 and better have good growing results......I was toying with a big pot....My Moso pot with wheels appears to be freed up....thanks everyone.
RE: Aurea questions
http://needmorebamboo.com/phyaurea.html
Look at needmore's info on aurea. I would rather believe he is wrong about this super vigorous bamboo, but it sounds like it'll be a herbacious perennial for the more northern climates.
Look at needmore's info on aurea. I would rather believe he is wrong about this super vigorous bamboo, but it sounds like it'll be a herbacious perennial for the more northern climates.
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RE: Aurea questions
Yes Lance..thanks for that link. Brad's info is pretty close to my climate although i think he has a few more tricks in his bag to get some stuff to overwinter better than I....I pretty much figured that out with the koi...as i have similar results. I guess the regular variety acts the same as koi....which only got to be 2 to 3 ft last year. It might be "in the pot" and moved around......To be honest i really should put the koi in the pot. the culms look much nicer i think....if it comes back this year.
- Eric Layton
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RE: Aurea questions
Kurt,
I don't have Koi so nothing to compare with. I have had aurea in pots for two winters now. Last winter I was so concerned about their hardiness I placed them in the best wind shelter I had and moved them indoors at night when the temperature dropped even slightly. The survived great. This winter I was a little less careful and left them out the entire time. They got completely fried, lost all leaves and some tops of the culms. I am still waiting for the releafing so I can tell how bad the culm damage was. I know of a planting of this outdoors and it is not thriving. The rubro right next to its is straining to break free of its assigned space but the aurea just sits there. It's rare to find the tortoise shell compressions on the culms I have seen, doesn't get big enough. Eric
I don't have Koi so nothing to compare with. I have had aurea in pots for two winters now. Last winter I was so concerned about their hardiness I placed them in the best wind shelter I had and moved them indoors at night when the temperature dropped even slightly. The survived great. This winter I was a little less careful and left them out the entire time. They got completely fried, lost all leaves and some tops of the culms. I am still waiting for the releafing so I can tell how bad the culm damage was. I know of a planting of this outdoors and it is not thriving. The rubro right next to its is straining to break free of its assigned space but the aurea just sits there. It's rare to find the tortoise shell compressions on the culms I have seen, doesn't get big enough. Eric
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RE: Aurea questions
I am growing in zone 6 Phyllostachys aurea for 4 years. Every winter all blade is killed by frost, if winter is stronger all under the soil is death. I have Phyllostachys aurea Koi, Phyllostachys aurea Flavescens-inversa and Phyllostachys aurea Holochrysa too. In my garden are less hardy than green Phyllostachys aurea. I think this bamboos are not good solution for this zone.
I am engaged in pages about hardy bamboos in Czech language - http://bambusy.info/.
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- Location: Wisconsin, USA zone 4b;
1951: -37*F;
1996: -29*F;
2005: -10*F;
2006: -17*F;
2007: -17*F.
RE: Aurea questions
I planted 'Holochrysa' last spring, so pretty soon I'll know if it survivied. All its foliage died in December but hung on all winter. Looked as good as any ornamental grass in winter.
--Mike
RE: Aurea questions
As long as you mulched it well, it'll be back.
Unless a vole did something sneaky!
Unless a vole did something sneaky!
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RE: Aurea questions
After doing more reading i think this might be a good choice for a big pot that can be moved inside in the winter.....for us in the z6....that is my decision and i'm sticking with it...lol Wufeng, curious how it comes back each year....has it gotten any bigger?? Or does it act more of a perennial? 6 ft culm size or what....Has it improved in appearance??
- rfgpitt
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RE: Aurea questions
Kurt,
I keep adding more and more items for my dream house. I have added a heated garage with humidifier and skylights with plenty of room to overwinter plants. ......I'll probably never move again until I'm fertilizer.
I keep adding more and more items for my dream house. I have added a heated garage with humidifier and skylights with plenty of room to overwinter plants. ......I'll probably never move again until I'm fertilizer.
Rick
RE: Aurea questions
There are a few small plantings of aurea in Cincinnati that I know of and most show significant damage even during a mild winter, such as this past one. In even a mild winter for Cincinnati it will lose all its leaves. In a regular winter, an established grove will see some culm dieback on the tallest culms and to the culms on the outside of the grove.
Most new plantings of aurea are killed to the ground their first year here and many times killed completely back the following year as well, but it does seem to be a prolific runner here as it is further south.
From my experience I wouldn't recommend this for zone 6 at all and northern zone 7 like along the eastern seaboard (Long Island, New Jersey etc.) either. This comes from a friend of mine who tried growing aurea on the Sound side of Long Island and though it continued to spread it got smaller and smaller each year.
Jake
Most new plantings of aurea are killed to the ground their first year here and many times killed completely back the following year as well, but it does seem to be a prolific runner here as it is further south.
From my experience I wouldn't recommend this for zone 6 at all and northern zone 7 like along the eastern seaboard (Long Island, New Jersey etc.) either. This comes from a friend of mine who tried growing aurea on the Sound side of Long Island and though it continued to spread it got smaller and smaller each year.
Jake
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RE: Aurea questions
My 3 aurea cultivars are about 4-5 feets tall, and after the winter damage they still produce similary stems in size. Phyllostachys aurea was on the begining 8 feet tall, and after the years is smaller and smaller. I have Phyllostachys viridis Rober Young too, and this kind is less hardy in my garden then above mentioned kinds, but Phyllostachys viridis Houzeau seams be a little bit hardier then Robert Young. Do you have anybody similar experience with hardiness Houzea/Robert Young.
I am engaged in pages about hardy bamboos in Czech language - http://bambusy.info/.
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RE: Aurea questions
I don't have those. When i first started getting diff. sp. I knew i was a z 6 but i thought i might be able to "push" the limit a bit to a z7. Unfortunatley, my z6 is a bit stubborn.... and most of my initial boos were a z7 ....now i am trying to get z6 or a z5 sp. to make sure what i spend efforts on actually live.
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- Location: Wisconsin, USA zone 4b;
1951: -37*F;
1996: -29*F;
2005: -10*F;
2006: -17*F;
2007: -17*F.
RE: Aurea questions
Wufeng-- How hot do your summers get? One advantage here might be the summer heat & high humidity which aurea seems to like.
--Mike
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RE: Aurea questions
We have not very long and hot summers. Really hot is for 6-9 weeks with average temperature about 25?C. Sometimes we have for a few days 30?C. There is very different weather during last years. One year is very long and hot summer and mild winter, second year is short, cold summer and winter with very strong frosts.
I am engaged in pages about hardy bamboos in Czech language - http://bambusy.info/.
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- Posts: 959
- Joined: Tue May 31, 2005 1:34 pm
- Location info: 0
- Location: Wisconsin, USA zone 4b;
1951: -37*F;
1996: -29*F;
2005: -10*F;
2006: -17*F;
2007: -17*F.
RE: Aurea questions
Thanks Wufeng. I guess my seasons are more extreme. Last year we had several days to 97F/36C and a couple months often to 80F/27C or more. Winters are colder but the summer heat makes many Phyllostachys very happy.
--Mike