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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 3:41 am 
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Location: north seattle, wa
even after trying everything they survive! (s. fastuosa temple)
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-alan in seattle
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 4:46 am 
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Location: Kerby, OR Location Details
Alan,

get some systemic insect control, the one that has Imidocloprid as the ingredient. I have done trades with other boo collectors, and a few times have recieved boo with mites. I use the regular dose for shrubs, and treat twice, about 3 months apart. I have not seen the little suckers make it through. the oldest boo I have has been mite free for around 5 years and I have not treated it after the innitial two times. Keep those boos with the mites away from your others if they are in pots, it will save you some money treating!


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 6:04 am 
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Location: north seattle, wa
thanks, i have tried the bayer w/mite control (a lot - i believe that imidocloprid is the ingredient) and it seems to work better than anything else i have tried including lemon & tobacco juice, neem oil, safer, soap etc. have run four series of four treaments with the bayer since last fall spraying & watering every third day. even tried avid. the little things are amazingly resilient but as you can see from the photo they are embattled). this spring i cut down a main grove & will try to treat as preventative with the new shoots (but there is boo with mites about 20 feet away in the neighbors yard that i have no control over). have been testing and moving toward mite resistant strains. the p aurea has been right next to some p nigra that has a lot of mites but no mites on the p aurea, moso or p aureasulcata. also have an isolated area for pots. will see if the birds bring them over.
-alan

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-alan in seattle
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 10:36 am 
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Location: Eustis, Fl zone 9a/b right between too cold & not cold enough Location Details
there is a bayer that you spray on and one that is a soil drench.
or am i confused?
which works best?

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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 1:02 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2006 9:42 pm
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Location: American Fork, Utah High Desert, elevation 4566 feet, zone 5 or 6 depending on which source.
I would also try the Ortho product formerly known as Isotox (acephate) I have sprayed it on my boo and was able to control spider mite.. It is going to work faster than the Bayer stuff because it is foliar applied

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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 3:27 pm 
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Location: north seattle, wa
i've been using this one
http://www.bayeradvanced.com/product/3-in-1-Insect-Disease-and-Mite-Control/concentrate.html
it's supposed to be foliar applied and also systemic through the roots.

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-alan in seattle
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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 4:42 pm 
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Location: Kerby, OR Location Details
the one I have used is the Bayer tree and shrub insect control. I dont know if that makes a difference or not, but I have not had it fail yet.

I wonder if what you are seeing are the leftovers from the mites. once leaves shed out this spring and summer, and new growth occurs, you may not see any more mites. I would look at the branch tips and the new leaves coming out and see how they look. if you dont see any more mite damage, hold off on treatment, and give it some time. You had mentioned a neighbor with bamboo, who had bamboo mites- unless it was a huge grove, you might talk to him about dumping a treatment on his boo, just to keep yours clean. it might cost you $20, but it would save you money in the long run.


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 11:55 pm 
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Location: Eustis, Fl zone 9a/b right between too cold & not cold enough Location Details
my multiplex is 15' tall with 20 1" culms.
do i apply as though it is a 15' shrub or a tree with 20" trunk?
or split the difference.

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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 12:51 am 
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Location: Kerby, OR Location Details
I use the shrub directions when i am dosing.

BTW, the stuff works awesome for getting rid of aphids too.


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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 1:22 am 
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Location: north seattle, wa
ghmerrill wrote:
the one I have used is the Bayer tree and shrub insect control. I dont know if that makes a difference or not, but I have not had it fail yet.

I wonder if what you are seeing are the leftovers from the mites. once leaves shed out this spring and summer, and new growth occurs, you may not see any more mites. I would look at the branch tips and the new leaves coming out and see how they look. if you dont see any more mite damage, hold off on treatment, and give it some time. You had mentioned a neighbor with bamboo, who had bamboo mites- unless it was a huge grove, you might talk to him about dumping a treatment on his boo, just to keep yours clean. it might cost you $20, but it would save you money in the long run.


thanks GH, after a week of lots of new growth on the temple i dont see any sign on the new growth. however the p. nigra doesnt have any new growth around the culms yet and there are still some suspicious looking webs. i may have killed off 98% of them but they may come back even more numerous next year. my fave boo up here has been the p aurea because of it's apparent mite resistance. our moso is still small but it has a lot of hairs too. i wonder how big that moso will get here in short summer seattle.

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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 3:38 am 
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Location: Kerby, OR Location Details
I would bet that when it sheds the old leaves, and gets new ones, you will see that them mites are gone. My last "questionable" mite infested boo is puting on new growth right now, and tons of new leaves, without a single sign of mites on the new growth. all winter long it really looked terrible, so I dosed it a second time about a month ago. Much easier to dose a pleoblastus in a one gallon pot! :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 5:12 am 
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Location: north seattle, wa
let me know how they look in a couple months. i'll do the same!

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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 7:44 am 
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Location: Kerby, OR Location Details
will do!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 9:35 pm 
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Location: north seattle, wa
update: a lot of new growth on the nigra & temple. no sign of new mite establishment. :D

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 6:32 pm 
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Location: Greater Seattle, WA, area; Zone 8. Summers:mainly 60's-70's. Winters are rainy, but above freezing except for a few 15 deg F days; 1-2 days of snow max.
Alan-
If you get a reappearance, you should try something with abamectin in it. The one I use is Avid and it really whacks those mites.


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